How to judge the Quality of a Pearl
Saturday, September 26th, 2009Pearl is considered by six basic factors in determining the quality, beauty, and value of a pearl: luster, nacre thickness, color and size.
Luster
Luster is determined by the amount of light reflected from the pearl surface as a combination of its outer brilliance and deep inner glow as an expression of a pearl beauty. The highest quality pearls with the best luster will reflect a clear mirror image of the objects around it, and will also have a distinct sharp contrast between the pearl bright and shaded areas. This actually creates the illusion of a glowing ball within a pearl. Generally, avoid any pearls that appear too white, dull, or chalky as you can be sure these are lower value pearls. Remember to examine the luster of pearls under a fluorescent lamp and in front of a light colored or optimally white background.
Nacre Thickness
Nacre thickness is a very important factor in determining pearl quality in that it directly affects the durability and therefore, how long the beauty of a pearl lasts. Along with nacre thickness, nacre quality is further determined by how light reflects through the layers of the nacre and illuminates a pearl. Sometimes pearls with thick nacre fail to exhibit the intensity of luster that is expected due to the way in which the layers of the nacre crystallized. The most accurate way to determine nacre thickness is through x-ray done at a gem testing laboratory.
Color
Pearls are available in a fascinating array of colors from white to black and virtually every color among. The choice of pearl color is important to consider based on preferences and cost, as well as the wearer’s skin, eye and hair color. When evaluating pearl color, it is important to note both body color and overtone. Although pearl color choice is a personal preference, rose and white overtones are commonly preferred by women with fair skin, while cream and gold tone pearls are most flattering to those with darker complexions. In addition to basic color, a pearl color tone intensity is also evaluated. Darker toned pearls that are richer in color are highly desirable and costly when compared to lighter intensity color pearls.
SHAPE
With many shapes available, pearls are first divided into three shape categories: symmetrical, spherical, and baroque. Very few pearls actually come out of an oyster perfectly round, that’s why such pearls are the most rare and valuable. And they are further defined by unique shapes such as teardrop, button, pear-shape, coin, flat, rice, oval, and cross just to name a few.
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